How to improve your photo
First of all, and this is something I always say, don't use any of the automatic functions of your camera. Try and do it all manually. At first it might seem harder to do well but in time you'll get used to it and the results will start improving.
The second advice, if you plan to do this type of high contrast situation again, is to use RAW. Only shoot with RAW if you don't want to loose a big part of light information on your captures. I never use any thing else than RAW wile shooting... and never, but never use JPEG, it's the worse file ever for image capture. No way anyone can do good in limit situations like this with a JPEG.
The solution for exposing in this situation would be to make more than one shot, so that you could have both the shadow and the highlights textures. You could also go for an exposure to the highlights sacrificing the shadows texture, leaving them back, but it's always good to have the chance to give them just a little bit of texture, not the make them pop but to give this subject the quality it deserves.
Once again, sorry for repeating..., don't use your built in flash unless you doing that sort of snapshots of friends where the built in flash works, which is also very hard to take into great results. A direct flash from the same angle and coming from such small reflection area as the opening of a built in, rarely gives good results. Don't use it...
In a situation like this, where you want to feel the rocks texture, never have it coming from the same angle as the shot, it will only flat your image... it will show what's there or what it could catch but it will flatten in.
There is an interesting thing that you could have done also, which is to a long shutter time so that you have the movement of the sea in a flow rather than sparkling texture and in this case the light is low enough that you can just close your aperture and speed down the shot. I can't say about the light there because it would be very different in different weather conditions outside, but I can imagine that it was possible to go under 1/4s. But that is something I could only no being there to see the intensity of the light.
While doing your manual exposures you have many possible approaches, you can measure each zone from the highlight to the shadow, you can use a grey card and just measure the light that's being reflected by the card (but you have to take the card to the litten area you're shooting), and you can study the Zone System and train your self into understanding where each litten are fits in each zone. The photometer only knows the existence of the grey card so it will always measure as if everything is grey. If you can know that an area fits with the zone VII you just have to open two stops so the it is correctly exposed.
I'm going to share this critique in my Facebook page, as I always do, so if you wish to give me some feedback and maybe network a little with me or any of amateur and professional photographer enthusiasts I usually network with your welcome to.
I'm sorry if I came a bit harsh in my critique but I think it's better to be true and say what needs to be said than just tell you how wounderfull it is and not help you at all.
See you soon,